The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.
An unexpected discovery on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the city's electric 1990s artistic milieu, moving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.
"That era was the height of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."
If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is in good company. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. However in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."
A Perceived Regression
This shift is hard to ignore: the rise of far-right politics, the pushback against social awareness, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the Blair era, currently a different political force appears as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of national pride, has sparked debate once more.
In Enninful's view, the antidote has consistently been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of prominent faces from politics.
"Those in a position of influence should wield it," he asserts, referring to those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain was not a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this period will end."
Hope in the Next Generation
He draws solace in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I had no concept what that was."
Those early experiences would shape a groundbreaking career characterised by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured diverse covers showcasing Black models, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Critically, sales increased.
"When you ignore large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s bad for business," he states.
Beyond the Magazine World
He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".
"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was painfully reserved. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity both an insider and outsider."
Defying the stereotype of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His journey has involved challenges, including publicly shared periods of mental health and substance use.
He has also faced serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to partial sight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever passes, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."
Curating a Cultural Era
This drive to be typecast has inspired him outside the industry that built his career. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and spotlight those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.
"The establishment often failed to celebrate the most relevant talents because they weren't of the right pedigree," he states.
The magazine 72 itself operates on a different strategy, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "Our approach is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."
An Unstoppable Drive
Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.
How would the Edward of the 90s think of the his current self? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was anti-establishment. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He adds. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve set my intention to do something."
